Intelexual-Media
"A Black Women's History of Hair" explores the significance of hair in Black societies before and during the Transatlantic Slave Trade and how it has impacted Black women's hairstyles throughout history. From the use of hair as a tool of communication and expression of cultural identity to the appropriation of Black hairstyles by non-Black individuals, the documentary examines how societal hierarchy and oppression have influenced hair practices. The film also touches on the cultural significance of different hairstyles for Black women, with a focus on the evolution of the natural hair movement and the government's crackdown on Black hair braiders. The video highlights the importance of hair salons and barbershops in modern society and the growing natural hair care industry. The documentary concludes by emphasizing the need for national protections against hair discrimination.
In this section, the video explores the significance of hair in African societies prior to the Transatlantic Slave Trade. Hair was used as a tool of communication, expressing parts of one's cultural identity, religion, status, and wealth. Additionally, hair played an essential part in rituals/spells or as protection talismans because it was so significant to our ancestors. Unfortunately, to mark their status as merchandise/chattel, most of the 20 million enslaved individuals were shaved bald, demonstrating the complete disconnection from their heritage and identity.
In this section, the history of black women's hairstyles during the era of slavery is explored. Due to the slave trade, the proper hair care and hygiene of enslaved people was not a priority, which led to the use of toxic substances like kerosene, butter and animal fat. Good hair became a fantasy and desired attribute, compared to bad hair, which was kinky, curly and short. In the 19th century, free black populations that did their hair like white people were mocked and labelled as pretentious. Hair was also significant in hoodoo conjurers' practices on plantations. The removal of hair was common and was seen as a punishment, and hair was also used by some to transport food when running away from enslavement.
In this section, the history of black hair is explored through the lens of social hierarchy and oppression. Physical characteristics such as light skin and straight hair were deemed desirable and led to colorism, even within the black community. Black women searched for ways to straighten their hair and breakage and baldness were common due to the lack of resources and experimentation. Hair coverings were associated with slavery survivors and post-antebellum advertisements marketed nostalgia for the "good old days of enslavement." Black publications in the early 20th century depicted ideal straight hair, but some activists, such as Nanny Helen Burrows, argued that changing hair appearances would not affect racial progress. Over time, black innovators such as Annie Malone and Madam CJ Walker created their own companies and empires centered around hair care products and beauty schools, tapping into the burgeoning straightening market.
In this section, the history of the early black beauty industry is explored, with entrepreneurs such as Madam CJ Walker providing affordable and safe options for black women to conform to the status quo rather than challenge it. However, these early hairdressers stressed they treated hair rather than straightened it, and despite the black hair care industry's profitability, it was viewed as self-hating and frivolous by some, including Booker T. Washington, who kept hair care instructors out of Tuskegee Institute and hair care businesses from the national negro Business League. As black Americans migrated North during the Great Migration, Beauty politics about straightening hair and lightening skin became more debated, but black women often had no choice but to conform to racist and intra-communal expectations to straighten their hair in order to find jobs. Despite objections, however, barber shops and beauty salons flourished and became centers of political discourse, community building, and important social bonds.
In this section of the transcript, we learn about the rise of wigs and attachments in the mid-20th century due to the mass production of these items, which meant anyone could wear them. Black women had a variety to choose from, and a 1947 Ebony magazine article reported that four million black women were buying an average of two falsies a year. However, colorism and an aversion to nappy hair were still evident in society, as fraternities had color taxes at parties, and only those with straight hair were allowed inside. Christina Jenkins developed the Snap-on hair process, which allowed for straight hair to be attached to kinky hair safely. However, the process was expensive, making wigs more accessible for most black women. Regional black beauty pageants and the ebony Fashion Fair were opportunities for black women to be seen in a wider variety of ways, and the afro hairstyle gained popularity during this time.
In this section, the video discusses the rise of the "Black is Beautiful" movement and the popularity of the afro hairstyle during the 1960s and 1970s. The movement was fueled by the rejection of the term "negro" in favor of "black," campaigns for more representation of dark-skinned black women, and the use of natural hair to celebrate black beauty. The afro was initially seen as a political statement, but it was criticized as a "shallow trend," and many black women never wore it as a political statement. Nevertheless, the afro became commodified and eventually watered down, leading to concerns by black stylists of potential impacts on their businesses.
In this section, the evolution of the afro from a political statement to a style statement is explored, particularly in the 1970s and the heady discos and black exploitation films of the decade. The beauty industry capitalized on the popularity of the afro with natural competitions and maintenance products like Afro Sheen and blowout kits. Despite the popularity of the afro, desire for straight hair remained strong, and in 1971, the dark and lovely live relaxer was introduced. As conservatism took hold in the 70s and 80s and employment opportunities shifted, hair conformity was expected, leading to the rise of hair salons and the sales of relaxers. Hair shows also grew in popularity, showcasing the latest black hair trends, from dreadlocks to the asymmetrical stacked blowout.
In this section, the video explores the cultural significance of different hairstyles for black women. The appropriation of black hairstyles by white women is discussed, such as Bo Derek's Fulani braids which caused white women to rush to get the style. The video also highlights how black women have faced discrimination in the workplace and schools for wearing braids, with some employers banning braided hairstyles. Respectability politics also played a role in discouraging black women from wearing their hair naturally. The 90s saw a blossoming of black celebrity culture and also brought changes to hairstyles, including the increasing use of extensions and lace front wigs. The wearing of human hair raised ethical concerns as hair was sometimes collected in ways that were deemed problematic.
In this section, we learn about the government's crackdown on black people's ability to braid hair professionally in the US during the 20th century. This occurred due to new licensing requirements, where hair braiders in 39 states and the District of Columbia were required to obtain a license, with some states necessitating as much as 2,100 hours of qualifications. Additionally, in 24 states, hair braiders had to get cosmetology licenses, which cost thousands of dollars. The transcripts also discusses how black hair companies were being sold to conglomerates by the late 90s, including Revlon's purchase of African pride. The rise of Koreans owning beauty supply stores, estimated at owning 70%, which harmed black Asian relations, was also noted.
In this section of the video, the importance of black hair salons and barbershops in modern society is discussed, as depicted in movies such as "Nora's Hair Salon" and "Barbershop". The rise of competition between black and Dominican salons and African immigration also impacted the hair stylist client culture forever. Additionally, the rise of African American blogs discussing natural hair became popular from the early 2010s, and it's speculated that the embrace of natural hair was aided by the 2009 recession. However, the straight hair continued to rule as the supreme form of black beauty during the 2000s, while nappy hair remained a pejorative term. Personal experiences with hair, such as receiving relaxers at a young age and being teased at school for Scary Spice bantu knots, are also discussed.
In this section of the video, the speaker reflects on her experiences with hair and the impact of media on black women's relationship with their hair. She remembers watching Chris Rock's "Good Hair" and being intrigued by the toxicity of relaxers, but didn't fully understand the lack of contextual analysis in the film at the time. Over the years, she experimented with clip-in ponytails, quick weaves, and even an invisible part, before eventually going natural with the encouragement of a friend. She acknowledges the stigma around natural hair and how it has evolved over time, with more black-owned businesses being bought out by larger corporations and the natural hair care industry flourishing. Despite this, she notes how many black women still prioritize cost and accessibility over supporting black-owned businesses, leading to a shift in the market towards more inclusive audiences.
In this section, the video discusses how the natural hair movement gained momentum in online spaces like Team Natural and Shea Butter Twitter, where women who wore natural hair and identified as feminists found a community. However, there are still people who believe only certain natural hair textures are professional or beautiful. The video highlights how the black hair care industry is using harmful chemicals that are linked to uterine cancer. The widespread belief that natural hair is inferior has only recently begun being legislated, with the passing of California's Crown Act and similar laws in other states. The video argues that hair discrimination needs to be called out and protected on a national level.
In this section of the video, the creator discusses the appropriation and appreciation of black hairstyles and haircare methods by other races. She expresses her love for discussing the history of black women's hair, but acknowledges that there are many more topics to explore from a unique black perspective. She invites her audience to share their own defining hair moments and hairstyle heroes, while also thanking her sponsor and promoting her Patreon account for those who wish to support more long-format videos.
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